Tbilisi is a city that turns into a frying pan in summer. When the thermometer hits +38C and the asphalt is melting, locals do one thing: head to the lake. Not to the sea in Batumi (7 hours), not to the mountains in Kazbegi (3 hours) -- but to a lake that's 15-20 minutes from downtown.
Tbilisi has two main lakes: Turtle Lake (Kus Tba in Georgian) and Lisi Lake, which locals call the Tbilisi Sea. Both are within city limits. Both offer swimming, cafes, and greenery. But they have completely different personalities.
As a guide, I take people to both lakes -- and every time I see tourists surprised that you can swim in a lake with mountain views right in the capital of Georgia. This guide covers everything you need before your visit: routes, prices, secret trails, and specific recommendations.
Why lakes are the best escape from Tbilisi's heat
Tbilisi sits in a valley between mountains. In summer, temperatures consistently reach +35-40C, and humidity makes it feel even more oppressive. Air conditioning helps indoors, but walking around the Old Town after noon is a challenge even for the well-prepared.
The lakes are a lifeline just 15-20 minutes away. The temperature near the water is 3-5 degrees lower than in the center. Trees provide shade. The water warms up to a comfortable 22-25C. And the best part -- this is not some artificial beach in a shopping mall, but real nature inside a major city.
Georgians love their lakes. For them, it's not just about swimming -- it's a ritual. A tablecloth is spread, food comes out (always khachapuri and watermelon), a bottle of homemade wine is opened. Kids run around, elderly men play backgammon, young people grill mtsvadi (kebab) on a mangal. If you want to see real Georgian leisure -- skip the restaurant. Go to the lake on a Saturday.
Turtle Lake: how to get there and what to do
Why is it called "Turtle" Lake?
The lake got its name from the turtles that once lived here in large numbers. These days there are far fewer, but you can still sometimes spot them near the shore in the early morning. The Georgian name is Kus Tba (Zhelvis Tba). The lake sits at 686 meters above sea level, in the Mtatsminda mountain area.
How to get there
Cable car -- the most atmospheric option. The lower station is in Vake Park (Chavchavadze Street). The ride takes 5 minutes in open-air cabins with stunning views. Cost: 2 GEL (about $0.70) one way, paid with a Metromoney card (same as the metro). Operates 10:00 AM to 9:00 PM daily, except Mondays (maintenance). In winter -- until 6:00 PM.
By taxi -- from the center, 8-12 GEL (about $3-4) via Bolt or Yandex Go. The road winds uphill and takes 10-15 minutes. Drivers know the lake -- just say "Kus Tba" or "Turtle Lake."
On foot -- from Vake Park through the forest. The trail starts from the upper part of the park, and the climb takes 30-40 minutes. The route is marked but steep in places -- you'll need athletic shoes. Along the way, you'll enjoy great city views and encounters with locals walking their dogs.
Bus -- route #61 from Rustaveli metro goes to the Turtle Lake terminus. Runs every 20-30 minutes, costs 1 GEL.
What to do at Turtle Lake
Walk around the lake. A full loop is about 1.2 km, taking 20-30 minutes at a leisurely pace. The path is paved and flat, suitable for strollers and elderly visitors. Along the way -- benches, several viewpoints, and a playground.
Swimming. Allowed during summer season (June-September). There's a small equipped beach with sun loungers. Lounger rental: 5-10 GEL (about $2-3.50). The water is clean and you can see the bottom. Depth near shore is 1-1.5 meters, increasing to 5 meters toward the center. Lifeguards are present, but only in summer.
Bombora amusement park. Right next to the lake -- small but charming. A Ferris wheel, carousels, trampolines. Prices: 3-8 GEL per ride. Perfect for kids ages 3-10. Open May through October.
Restaurants with a view. There are 4-5 restaurants with terraces right over the water surrounding the lake. Georgian cuisine: khachapuri, khinkali, kebab. Average bill: 25-40 GEL (about $9-14) per person. Top picks: "Tbilisis Zghva" (despite the name, it's on Turtle Lake) and "Tsiskvili" (the mill) -- with wooden terraces and live music on weekend evenings.
Forest hiking trails. Several trails lead from the lake into the Mtatsminda forest. You can hike to the TV tower (1.5 hours) or to Mtatsminda Park (2 hours). Trails are marked, but a navigation app doesn't hurt.
Lisi Lake (Tbilisi Sea): complete guide
What is Lisi Lake
Lisi Lake is what Tbilisi residents call the "Tbilisi Sea" (Tbilisis Zgva). It's significantly larger than Turtle Lake: the perimeter is about 3 km, with an area of 0.4 km2. Located on the northwestern outskirts of the city at 624 meters elevation. Surrounded by a park with pines and cypresses, sports facilities, and a promenade.
The lake underwent a major renovation between 2015-2018: the promenade was updated, bike paths were built, lighting installed, and trees planted. Today it's one of the best parks in Tbilisi -- and one of the least known among tourists.
How to get to Lisi Lake
Bus #60 -- from Didube metro station. Runs every 15-20 minutes, the ride takes 20-25 minutes. Cost: 1 GEL. The last stop is right at the lake.
By taxi -- from the center, 10-15 GEL (about $3.50-5) via Bolt or Yandex Go. Takes 15-20 minutes depending on traffic. On weekend mornings, the approach to the lake can be congested.
By car -- parking at the lake is free. There are two lots: the main one (200 cars) at the main entrance and a second one at the southern shore. On weekends, lots fill up by 11:00 AM -- arrive earlier.
By bicycle -- about 8 km from the center, but uphill. The return is fast and pleasant. A bike lane exists only on the last 2 km near the lake.
What to do at Lisi Lake
Beach and swimming. The main beach is on the southern shore. Sandy, with a gentle slope into the water -- great for kids. Water warms to 24-26C in July-August. The beach is free; loungers are 5-8 GEL. Changing rooms and showers exist but are basic. Season: June through September.
Boat and catamaran rentals. The dock is at the main entrance. Catamaran (2-4 people): 15-20 GEL (about $5-7) for 30 minutes. Rowboat: 10-15 GEL for 30 minutes. SUP board: 20-25 GEL per hour. Open May through October, 10:00 AM to 7:00 PM. Weekdays are queue-free; weekends expect 15-20 minute waits.
Running and cycling path. A full loop around the lake is 3.2 km. The path is paved and separate from the pedestrian walkway. Lighting is available, so you can run until dark. In the mornings (6:00-8:00 AM), local runners train here. Bike rental at the entrance: 10-15 GEL per hour.
Sports facilities. Around the lake: 3 calisthenics areas, basketball and volleyball courts (free). Tennis court: 20-30 GEL per hour (book in advance).
Fishing. Allowed on the eastern shore. You can catch carp, crucian carp, and silver carp. Rods can be rented from local fishermen for 5-10 GEL. Best times: early morning (5:00-8:00 AM) or evening after 6:00 PM. No license required.
Picnics. Picnic areas are on the northern shore, under pine trees. Grills are installed (free, first-come-first-served). Charcoal is sold at the entrance: 5 GEL per bag. On weekends, grills are taken by 10:00 AM -- arrive earlier or bring your own portable one.
Comparison: Turtle Lake vs Lisi -- where to go?
| Criteria | Turtle Lake | Lisi Lake |
|---|---|---|
| Size | Small (0.04 km2) | Large (0.4 km2) |
| Distance from center | 10-15 minutes | 15-20 minutes |
| Best transport | Cable car | Bus/taxi |
| Beach | Small, rocky | Large, sandy |
| Boats/catamarans | No | Yes (from 10 GEL) |
| Restaurants nearby | 4-5, with water views | 2-3, simpler |
| Amusement park | Yes (Bombora) | No |
| Bike path | No | Yes (3.2 km) |
| Atmosphere | Touristic, cozy | Local, family-oriented |
| Weekend crowds | Medium | High |
| Best for | Couples, short outings | Families, full day |
My recommendation: if you have 2-3 hours -- Turtle Lake. Cable car + lunch with a view + walk around = perfect morning. If you have a full day and want swimming, boating, and grilling -- Lisi. You can do both lakes in one day, but it's tiring and unnecessary.
2026 prices: everything itemized
Turtle Lake
| Service | Price (GEL) | Price (USD) |
|---|---|---|
| Cable car (one way) | 2 GEL | ~$0.70 |
| Cable car (round trip) | 4 GEL | ~$1.40 |
| Taxi from center | 8-12 GEL | ~$3-4 |
| Beach lounger | 5-10 GEL | ~$2-3.50 |
| Bombora ride | 3-8 GEL | ~$1-3 |
| Restaurant lunch (1 person) | 25-40 GEL | ~$9-14 |
| Coffee at a cafe | 5-8 GEL | ~$2-3 |
Lisi Lake
| Service | Price (GEL) | Price (USD) |
|---|---|---|
| Bus #60 (one way) | 1 GEL | ~$0.35 |
| Taxi from center | 10-15 GEL | ~$3.50-5 |
| Catamaran (30 min) | 15-20 GEL | ~$5-7 |
| Rowboat (30 min) | 10-15 GEL | ~$3.50-5 |
| SUP board (1 hour) | 20-25 GEL | ~$7-9 |
| Bike rental (1 hour) | 10-15 GEL | ~$3.50-5 |
| Beach lounger | 5-8 GEL | ~$2-3 |
| Tennis court (1 hour) | 20-30 GEL | ~$7-10 |
| Charcoal for grill | 5 GEL | ~$1.75 |
Secret spots only locals know
At Turtle Lake
Trail to Krtsanisi Forest. Behind the Tsiskvili restaurant, a trail leads into Krtsanisi Forest. After 20 minutes of walking -- a clearing with a view of all of Tbilisi. Local photographers come here at sunset. The trail is unmarked -- ask the restaurant staff, they'll point you to the start.
Hidden waterfall. A 15-minute walk from the lake along the trail toward Mtatsminda Park, there's a small seasonal waterfall. It flows from March to June, when there's enough rainwater. Height: 3-4 meters, but the spot itself is magical: moss, ferns, silence. Very few tourists know about it.
Morning fishing. Yes, people fish in Turtle Lake -- early morning (6:00-8:00 AM) before the tourists arrive. Local fishermen will sometimes lend you a rod if you ask politely in Georgian: "Gamarjoba, sheidzleba?" (Hello, may I?).
At Lisi Lake
The northern shore. Tourists and most locals head to the southern beach. The northern shore is wild, with rocks and pine trees. It's quiet here -- no music, no BBQ smoke. You can lay your towel on the grass and spend the day in silence. Access is via a path from the western parking lot.
Hilltop viewpoint. Beyond the eastern shore, there's a hill with a dirt trail leading up (15-minute climb). From the top -- a panorama of the lake with mountains in the background. Best time: sunset, when the water turns gold.
Night fishing. On summer Fridays and Saturdays, fishermen gather on the eastern shore for night fishing. They build campfires, brew tea, and tell stories. Show up with a bottle of chacha and you'll be welcomed like family.
Where to eat near the lakes
Near Turtle Lake
Tsiskvili (The Mill). Georgian cuisine, wooden terraces over the water. Their Imeretian khachapuri is one of the best in the city. Mushroom khinkali -- unusual but delicious. Live music on Fridays and Saturdays. Average bill: 30-50 GEL (~$10-18). Reservations mandatory on weekends.
Funicular Restaurant. At the cable car station. More modern, with European cuisine and Georgian touches. Good coffee; breakfast served until noon. Average bill: 25-40 GEL. The terrace overlooks Vake Park below.
Street food at the entrance. Shawarma (7-10 GEL), grilled corn (3 GEL), ice cream (3-5 GEL). Cheap and fast -- but quality varies. The best shawarma is from the guy with the red awning to the right of the entrance.
Near Lisi Lake
Lisi Garden. Cafe at the main entrance. Simple Georgian food: lobiani (bean bread) -- 5 GEL, shashlik (mtsvadi) -- 12-15 GEL, lemonade -- 3 GEL. Not a gourmet paradise, but honest and tasty. Large terrace with a water view.
DIY picnic. The best option at Lisi is to bring your own food. Buy at Dezerter Bazaar: lavash (1 GEL), suluguni cheese (8-12 GEL/kg), tomatoes (3-4 GEL/kg), herbs (2 GEL), a bottle of Saperavi (12-20 GEL). Grill and charcoal are on-site. Lunch for four costs 40-60 GEL.
Best spots for photos and Instagram
Turtle Lake:
- Cable car -- shoot from the cabin: city below, mountains on the horizon. Best time: 5:00-6:00 PM, golden light.
- Tsiskvili restaurant terrace -- reflections in the water, trees, wooden railings. Classic "Georgian vibes."
- Mtatsminda forest trail -- leaves, light through the trees, silhouettes. Magical atmosphere in the morning.
- Sunset from the eastern side of the lake -- the sun sets behind the mountains, the water turns pink. Narrow window: 7:30-8:00 PM in summer.
Lisi Lake:
- Promenade at dawn -- empty path, mist over the water, pine reflections. Arrive by 6:00 AM.
- Catamaran in the center of the lake -- 360-degree panorama: mountains, pines, promenade. Shoot with a wide angle.
- Viewpoint on the eastern hill -- bird's-eye view of the entire lake. Best shot at sunset.
- Picnic area on the northern shore -- wild nature, rocks, solitary pines. For "nature" photography.
Practical tips from guide Timur
What to bring:
- Sunscreen (SPF 50+) -- you burn faster at the lake than in the city because of water reflection.
- Swimsuit and towel -- at Lisi, changing rooms are basic; your own towel is more comfortable.
- Water -- Turtle Lake has a shop; at Lisi, better to bring from the city.
- Cash -- not everywhere at Lisi accepts cards. 30-50 GEL in cash is enough.
- Comfortable shoes -- if you plan hiking trails around the lakes.
Safety:
- Don't leave belongings unattended at the beach -- this is Tbilisi, not a village.
- Don't swim too far out at Turtle Lake -- depth increases sharply toward the center.
- Don't swim at Lisi after rain -- the water can be murky for 1-2 days.
- If hiking forest trails -- let someone know your route.
Best times to visit:
- Turtle Lake: weekdays, 9:00-11:00 AM or 5:00-8:00 PM. Weekends after 11:00 AM -- crowds.
- Lisi: weekdays, morning. Weekends -- only if you're ready for crowds and music.
- Swimming season: June through September. Peak heat: July-August.
- For walks: April-May and September-October -- perfect. Green, cool, few people.
Pro tip from Timur: combine a trip to Turtle Lake with a hike to Mtatsminda Park. Route: cable car up to the lake, lunch with a view, trail through the forest to Mtatsminda Park, funicular down to Rustaveli Avenue. 4-5 hours, and you'll see three attractions in one go. More about hiking routes in our guide to hidden gems of Tbilisi.