Who Was David of Gareja?
David (Davit) of Gareja was one of the Thirteen Syrian Fathers — monks who came from Cappadocia to Georgia in the 6th century to spread Christianity. David settled in this remote semi-desert in 530 AD, carving the first cells into the sandstone. Within a century, the complex grew to 12 monasteries. The site was repeatedly attacked and partially destroyed — by the Mongols, by Timur's armies, and by Shah Abbas of Persia (who massacred 6,000 monks on Easter Sunday 1615). Despite everything, monks returned. The Lavra functions to this day.
The Lavra — 6th Century, Still Active
The main Lavra monastery is carved into the base of the ridge — cells, chapels, wine cellars, and a refectory hollowed from the rock. The 9th-century Church of the Transfiguration contains frescoes from three different periods. The atmosphere — silence, cool stone, the smell of incense — is unlike any other monastery in Georgia.
The Ascent to Udabno
A 30-minute climb up the sandstone ridge brings you to Udabno (wilderness) monastery — a chain of cave churches along the crest, the ridge forming the Georgia-Azerbaijan border. The frescoes (8th–14th century) are extraordinary in their survival: portraits of Georgian kings, scenes from the life of David, and the remarkable image of Queen Tamar as a large-eyed, golden-haloed figure.
From the ridge top, the view opens across the Shiraki steppe into Azerbaijan — an immense, rolling semi-desert landscape that explains why the monks chose this solitude. You can literally stand on the border between two countries while looking at 12th-century paintings inside cave churches.
The Full Route & What to See
The tour begins with a pickup from your hotel in Tbilisi. On the two-hour drive southeast, the landscape transitions from the fertile Alazani valley through scrubland and into open semi-desert as you approach the Gareja plateau. The contrast is striking — this is not the green Georgia of the postcards.
At the Lavra, you enter through a low archway into a world carved entirely from the living rock. Cave cells where monks have slept since the 6th century, a kitchen with stone shelving, wine cellars with ancient qvevri embedded in the floor. The 9th-century Church of the Transfiguration is the centrepiece — three layers of fresco visible in places where later paintings have peeled away.
After the Lavra, the trail leads up the ridge to Udabno. The path is clear but steep in places — take your time. At the top, a row of cave churches opens along the crest. Inside, the frescoes from the 8th to 14th centuries have survived in conditions that should have destroyed them: open to the wind, alternately frozen and baked. The portrait of Queen Tamar — large-eyed, frontal, haloed in gold — is the most famous image here, but the donor portraits of Georgian kings and the scenes of David's life are equally compelling.
The panorama from the ridge is one of the best in Georgia: the green monastery valley on the Georgian side, the vast yellow-grey steppe of Azerbaijan on the other, with the border marker standing at the edge.
Practical Tips for the Tour
Before heading to David Gareja, make sure you are prepared. The terrain requires attention and the site has no facilities — no café, no water, no toilets beyond the basic. Here is what experienced visitors recommend:
- Wear sturdy shoes. The ridge path is rocky and uneven. Trainers are acceptable; flip-flops are not. Hiking boots or trail shoes are ideal.
- Bring 1.5–2 litres of water per person. There is nothing to buy at the site. The climb to Udabno takes 30 minutes and the sun is intense even in spring.
- Apply sunscreen and bring a hat. The ridge is fully exposed. Even on overcast days the UV at altitude is significant.
- Dress in layers. The morning drive can be cool, the ridge at midday is hot, and early evenings in spring drop quickly.
- Plan for spring or autumn. April–May gives wildflowers, comfortable temperatures, and good light for photography. September–October is also excellent. July–August is very hot and the steppe is dry and bleached.
- Bring a camera. The monastery and frescoes are extraordinarily photogenic. The ridge panorama in both directions is a landscape unlike anything else in Georgia.