Guria — Tea, Bakhmaro and Georgia's Most Untouristic Region
About Guria
Guria is Georgia's smallest mainland region, squeezed between Adjara to the south and Imereti to the east. Its capital, Ozurgeti, is a quiet town of about thirty thousand. There are virtually no foreign tourists: no tour buses, no souvenir shops, no restaurants with English menus. This is the Georgia most travelers never see — and that's exactly why you should go.
Gurians are considered the wittiest people in Georgia — not a stereotype but practically official status. Georgian jokes often begin "one Gurian..." and Gurian feasts are famous not just for wine but for endless toasts, jokes and stories. A unique form of polyphonic singing was born here — krimanchuli, Gurian yodeling. When you hear three men perform complex trilling melodies without accompaniment, you understand why Georgian polyphony is on the UNESCO list.
Guria is two worlds in one region. To the west — the subtropical Black Sea coast with Ureki's magnetic sand beaches and lush vegetation. To the east — forested mountains rising to two thousand meters, topped by the legendary Bakhmaro. Between them — tea plantations that once supplied tea to the entire Soviet Union. Georgia was the USSR's main tea supplier, and Guria grew the finest varieties.
Gurian khachapuri is a story of its own. Unlike the Imeretian or Adjarian versions, Gurian khachapuri is crescent-shaped and filled not just with cheese but also with hard-boiled egg. Traditionally made for New Year, in Guria you can try it year-round. Gurian New Year is a phenomenon unto itself — celebrated with a grandeur found nowhere else in the country. Burning of Christmas trees, processions, songs and tables groaning with food — if you visit Guria in January, you'll remember this celebration for life.
What to See in Guria
Bakhmaro — Highland Resort
Bakhmaro is a mountain settlement at 2,050 meters where Georgians have been escaping summer heat for over a century. Wooden chalets without electricity (some still), clouds drifting right past the porch, and breathtaking panoramas. Bakhmaro's mountain air is considered therapeutic — in Soviet times people with lung conditions were sent here. The drive from Ozurgeti takes about two hours on switchback roads, but every turn reveals a new vista. The resort operates only June to October — in winter the pass is closed by snow.
Ozurgeti — Capital of Guria
Ozurgeti doesn't appear in any guidebook, and that's its greatest asset. A small, authentic town with a bazaar selling fresh fruit and homemade cheese. A few old churches, Soviet architecture, courtyards with grapevines. You can simply sit in a cafe on the central square, drink coffee and watch life in a provincial Georgian town — without a single tourist around. If you want to understand how real Georgia lives beyond Tbilisi and resorts, Ozurgeti will show you.
Tea Plantations
In Soviet times Georgia produced up to one hundred thousand tons of tea per year, with a significant portion of plantations in Guria and the neighboring Chakva district. After the USSR's collapse the industry crashed, but is now experiencing a revival. Small farms produce boutique Georgian tea supplied to European restaurants. Near Anaseuli an old tea factory operates, and the Chakva plantations (technically Adjara but nearby) are among the region's oldest. Walking among tea bushes with subtropical mountains in the background looks nothing like Georgia — more like Sri Lanka.
Ureki — Magnetic Sand Beach
Ureki is a resort village on the Black Sea with unique black magnetic sand. The sand's magnetic properties are considered therapeutic — people come with joint, cardiovascular and nervous system conditions. The beach is wide and long, water warm from June to September. Infrastructure is simple — not Batumi with its skyscrapers but a quiet family resort with guesthouses and home cooking. Here you can combine beach relaxation with exploring Guria.
Likani — Gurian Fortress
Medieval fortress ruins on a picturesque hill — one of Guria's few historical landmarks. The fortress controlled the valley and served as a defensive line in the Middle Ages. Today walls and towers remain, but the site impresses with views of surrounding forests and mountains. Almost no one makes it here, so the ruins stand in complete solitude — you can wander for hours without encountering another person.
Gurian New Year
If you find yourself in Guria in January, a unique cultural experience awaits. Gurian New Year is not just a celebration but an entire ritual. Burning of chichilaki (decorative wooden trees), street processions, krimanchuli singing, feasts with Gurian khachapuri and tons of food. Every family sets a table and invites everyone — including strangers. This is one of those traditions impossible to describe in a guidebook — you have to live it. Winter Guria is quiet and contemplative, but during New Year it erupts with joy.
When to Visit and Practical Tips
Summer (June-September): best time for Bakhmaro and Ureki beaches. Coast temperature +28-32°C, mountains +15-20°C. Road to Bakhmaro open. Sea warm. Most popular season for Georgians — book Bakhmaro accommodation in advance.
Spring (April-May): ideal time for tea plantations. Bushes are green, first harvest begins. Few people, mild weather. Road to Bakhmaro may still be closed.
Fall (October-November): harvest time — tangerines, persimmon, walnuts. Beautiful colors in the mountains. Bakhmaro closes in late October.
Winter (December-January): for those wanting to see Gurian New Year. Quiet, rainy on the coast but atmospheric. Bakhmaro inaccessible.
Accommodation: in Ozurgeti — simple guesthouses and hotels. In Bakhmaro — wooden chalets (book via Georgian sites or call directly). In Ureki — private sector and mini-hotels. No luxury hotels — that's part of Guria's charm.
Getting there: Tbilisi to Ozurgeti is about 4 hours 30 minutes by car. Minibus via Kutaisi available. Most convenient: on the way to or from Batumi, spend a day in Guria. With Sakhva Travel you can include Guria in a Batumi trip itinerary.
Tour with a Stop in Guria
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