Samtskhe-Javakheti — Vardzia, Borjomi and Medieval Fortresses
About the Region
Samtskhe-Javakheti is Georgia's southernmost region, squeezed between Turkey and Armenia. This is a land of cave cities, mineral springs and volcanic plateaus where history was written not in ink but in stone. The region consists of two historical areas: Samtskhe (western, with Akhaltsikhe and Borjomi) and Javakheti (eastern highlands with lakes and Armenian villages).
Samtskhe-Javakheti is a land of contrasts. The west features green Kura River gorges, Borjomi-Kharagauli pine forests and hot springs. The east is a flat treeless plateau at two thousand meters, where winter temperatures drop to -25°C and summer winds carry wormwood and dry grass scents. Georgians, Armenians, Azerbaijanis, Greeks and Russians live here — a multi-ethnic land where a mosque and church stand a hundred meters apart.
Two routes from Tbilisi. Via Gori and Khashuri on the Western Highway — if heading to Borjomi. Via the Southern Highway and Lake Paravani — for Vardzia, Ninotsminda or Akhalkalaki. Both routes are scenic, but the second is truly wild: mountain switchbacks, sheep flocks on the road and breathtaking views.
I take groups to this region regularly — and every time Vardzia makes an equally powerful impression. Six hundred caves carved into the cliff in the 12th century by Queen Tamar's order — this is not a museum, it's living proof of what civilization can achieve without concrete and steel.
What to See
Vardzia — Queen Tamar's Cave City
A 12th-century monastic complex carved into a cliff face stretching five hundred meters. Originally Vardzia contained about six hundred caves on thirteen levels: living quarters, churches, libraries, pharmacies, bakeries and even a water system. The 1283 earthquake collapsed the front wall, exposing the internal structure — now the entire city is visible from outside, like a giant cross-section of an anthill. The main Church of the Assumption preserves 12th-century frescoes with a portrait of Queen Tamar. Entry 15 lari, audio guide available. More in our Vardzia tour.
Rabati Fortress in Akhaltsikhe
A medieval citadel fully restored in 2012. Rabati's uniqueness lies in the coexistence of a mosque, church, synagogue and bathhouse on one grounds. Upper fortress — museum and viewpoint; lower — restaurants, hotel and craft shops. Night lighting transforms Rabati into a fairytale. Lower section free entry.
Khertvisi Fortress
One of Georgia's oldest fortresses — first fortifications appeared here in the 2nd century BC. Khertvisi stands on a cliff above the Kura and Paravani rivers' confluence, controlling the gorge entrance. Listed on the UNESCO tentative list together with Vardzia. On the road to Vardzia — a convenient 10-15 minute stop.
Borjomi and Central Park
Everyone knows Borjomi from the mineral water bottle. But the town itself in the green gorge of the Borjomka River deserves a full day. The central park stretches three kilometers along the river: hot sulfur springs, playgrounds, cable car, forest trails. You can drink mineral water free from the park's spring — warm with its distinctive taste. Borjomi tour from Tbilisi takes a full day.
Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park
One of Europe's largest national parks — seventy-six thousand hectares of untouched forest. Several routes from one to three days. You can overnight at tourist shelters. Home to brown bears, lynx, deer and over two hundred bird species.
Bakuriani Ski Resort
A family ski resort 25 km from Borjomi. Slopes easier and cheaper than Gudauri — ideal for beginners and families. Season December-March. Summer brings hiking and horseback riding.
Lake Paravani
Georgia's largest lake at 2,073 meters. Cold even in summer, surrounded by treeless steppe. Migratory birds stop here and local fishermen catch trout. The road passes through the Javakheti Plateau — a vast volcanic highland where the landscape resembles Iceland more than the Caucasus. On shore — several Armenian villages and medieval church ruins.
Bakuriani
A ski resort at 1,700 meters — winter brings lifts and slopes of various difficulty, while summer transforms Bakuriani into a base for hiking, horseback riding and mountain biking. From Borjomi, the narrow-gauge "Kukushka" train runs to Bakuriani — one of the last operating narrow-gauge routes in the world. The train crawls through the gorge for two hours, winding between pines — an attraction in itself.
Khertvisi Fortress
One of Georgia's oldest fortresses, standing on a cliff at the Kura and Paravani rivers' confluence. First fortifications date to the 2nd century BC. Current walls are 10th-14th century. Khertvisi controlled the caravan route between Turkey and Transcaucasia. Compact but impressive — perched on a sheer cliff with views from arrow slits into a deep gorge. On the road from Akhaltsikhe to Vardzia — a mandatory stop.
When to Visit and What to Bring
Best time: May-June and September-October. Spring brings blooming Borjomi gorge while snow still covers the Javakheti Plateau — impressive contrast. Autumn means golden forests and empty Vardzia caves without crowds. Summer is hot in valleys but always cool on the plateau (2000m). Winter opens Bakuriani as a ski resort.
What to bring: windbreaker essential — even in summer it's windy at Vardzia and on the plateau. Comfortable shoes for stairs and paths in the cave city. Water — cafes aren't always available on the Borjomi-Vardzia route. Cash lari — cards not accepted everywhere in small towns.
Our Tours in the Region
Want to see Vardzia and Borjomi in one day?
Message Timur — we'll plan a route. Reply within 15 minutes.