Mtskheta & Kazbegi — Ancient Capital and the Greater Caucasus
About Mtskheta-Mtianeti Region
Mtskheta-Mtianeti is a region of contrasts: from Georgia's ancient capital at the Kura and Aragvi confluence to the Greater Caucasus glaciers at five thousand meters. In just over six thousand square kilometers, there's enough history, nature and adrenaline for an entire country.
The lower part is Mtskheta, Georgia's capital for a thousand years, from the 3rd century BC to the 5th century AD. Here Saint Nino baptized Georgia in 337, here stands Svetitskhoveli — the country's main cathedral. Three Mtskheta sites are UNESCO World Heritage listed — more than any other Georgian city.
The upper part is mountainous Mtianeti. Here begins the Georgian Military Highway — one of the world's most beautiful mountain roads. It runs from Tbilisi through Zhinvali Reservoir, Ananuri Fortress, mineral springs in Pasanauri, the Cross Pass at 2,395 meters, the Friendship Arch and descends into Stepantsminda valley at the foot of Kazbek. I drive this route three-four times a week and find something new each time: different light, different clouds, different mountain colors.
The region includes four municipalities: Mtskheta, Dusheti, Tianeti and Kazbegi. Mtskheta means pilgrimage and history. Dusheti offers quiet foothills and Sabaduri Forest, which becomes a winter wonderland. Tianeti is forgotten Georgia with bronze artifacts and Bochorma fortress. Kazbegi means glaciers, gorges and one of the most photographed churches on the planet.
What to See
Svetitskhoveli — Georgia's Main Cathedral
The 11th-century Patriarchal Cathedral in the center of Mtskheta. According to tradition, the Robe of Christ, brought from Jerusalem, is buried beneath it. Svetitskhoveli is an active cathedral where the country's main church ceremonies are held. Inside — frescoes from various eras and the famous "small temple within the large one" — a model of the Holy Sepulchre. Just 25 km from Tbilisi, a 30-minute drive. More details in our Mtskheta tour.
Jvari — Temple Above the Confluence
A 6th-century monastery atop a mountain with a panorama of the Kura and Aragvi rivers' confluence. One of Georgia's first cross-dome churches and a UNESCO site. "Jvari" means "cross" — legend says Saint Nino placed a cross here after Georgia's conversion. The switchback drive up takes ten minutes.
Ananuri Fortress
A medieval fortress on the shore of Zhinvali Reservoir — one of Georgia's most photogenic spots. Two churches from the 13th-17th centuries, a watchtower and turquoise water below. Ananuri sits on the Georgian Military Highway; we always stop here on the way to Kazbegi. In summer you can kayak on the reservoir.
Gergeti Trinity Church and Mount Kazbek
The 14th-century Holy Trinity Church at 2,170 meters — Georgia's signature landmark. Behind it rises Mount Kazbek at 5,047 meters, covered in glaciers. On clear days the view from the church defies description — mountains, gorges, clouds below. The drive up the dirt road takes twenty minutes, on foot about two hours. I recommend arriving before 10 AM, before clouds cover the summit.
Friendship of Nations Arch
A monumental mosaic arch at the Cross Pass, built in 1983. From the viewing platform — a view of the Devil's Valley surrounded by cliffs. In winter the pass is covered in snow and the arch stands in white silence. In summer everyone traveling the Georgian Military Highway stops here.
Gudauri Ski Resort
Georgia's main ski resort at 2,196 meters. Season runs December-March with slopes of various difficulty and modern lifts. In summer Gudauri is a launching point for hiking, paragliding and cycling tours. About two hours from Tbilisi.
Truso Gorge
A wild gorge northwest of Stepantsminda with mineral springs, travertine terraces and abandoned Ossetian villages. Landscapes here are Martian: red earth, white deposits, blue streams. Reachable by 4WD or on foot — fifteen kilometers one way. Along the way you'll find mineral water springs bubbling from under rocks, smelling of sulfur. At the end of the gorge — the abandoned village of Ketrisi and views of the Mna Glacier.
Ananuri Fortress
A medieval castle complex on the shores of Zhinvali Reservoir — the main stop on the Georgian Military Highway. Two churches from the 13th and 17th centuries stand within fortress walls, and from the ramparts you see the turquoise reservoir framed by mountains. Ananuri played a key role in the struggle between the Aragvi and Ksani dukes. Inside the Assumption Church, frescoes and stone carvings with grapevines — the Aragvi clan symbol — are preserved. Free entry, parking nearby.
Zhinvali Reservoir
An artificial lake on the Aragvi River, built in 1986. Turquoise water surrounded by forested mountains — one of the most photogenic spots on the road to Kazbegi. Locals swim here in summer, and on calm days the surface becomes a mirror reflecting the mountains. Best photo spot — the viewing point at Ananuri.
When to Visit and What to Bring
For Kazbegi: May-June and September-October — mountains are open, slopes are green, Kazbek is visible. July-August hot in the valley but comfortable in the mountains. Winter brings snowy landscapes but the Cross Pass sometimes closes due to avalanche risk.
For Mtskheta: year-round. Cathedrals and monasteries are always open. Spring and autumn ideal for walking, summer is hot.
What to bring: a jacket or windbreaker — mountains are 10-15 degrees cooler than Tbilisi. Comfortable shoes for the climb to Gergeti. Sunscreen and water. For monasteries — covered shoulders and knees. Cash lari — mountain villages rarely accept cards.
Our Tours in the Region
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