Georgia in November: Weather, What's Open and Is It Worth It

November is my favourite month for unhurried trips around Georgia. The summer queues at Gergeti and Mtskheta are gone, Tbilisi still has golden leaves, the Kakheti harvest is wrapping up and the cellars are full of new wine. But November isn't October: days are shorter, the mountains are cold and the coast gets a lot of rain. Here is where to go and what to leave for spring.

November weather by city

Air temperatures and rainy days are 2014–2023 averages from the Open-Meteo archive.

Averages for 2014–2023. The east (Tbilisi and Kakheti) is much drier than the west in November: in Batumi and Kutaisi it rains almost every other day. For the coming days, check Tbilisi weather and Batumi weather.

Early vs late November

The first half still feels like autumn: Tbilisi and Kakheti keep their yellow and red leaves and days can reach 15 °C or more. The sun sets in Tbilisi around 17:55 at the start of the month — enough daylight for Kakheti or Mtskheta.

In the second half the leaves fall, nights approach freezing and snow becomes more frequent in the mountains. By the end of the month sunset is around 17:30, so start long trips at 8 am. In return it is the quietest time of year: museums and viewpoints are nearly empty.

Daylight and getting around

Short days shape any November plan more than the weather does. Sunrise and sunset in Tbilisi:

So a long day trip has to start by 8 am to see the main stop in daylight. Marshrutkas keep running all month: Mtskheta costs ₾3, Sighnaghi ₾8–10 and Kazbegi ₾15, but on the Kazbegi road they are cancelled when the pass closes. The express train to Batumi starts at ₾29 and takes 5–5.5 hours, which is easier than driving through rain in the west. If you hire a car, avoid mountain roads after dark — snow and fog on the Jvari Pass are common in late November.

Where to go in November

Day trips from Tbilisi work best in November: the city is a convenient base and the east stays dry. My picks:

• Kakheti — wineries, Alaverdi and Bodbe monasteries, Sighnaghi. The grapes are in and you can taste wine straight from the qvevri. The Kakheti tour is linked above; for the region in autumn, see Kakheti in autumn.
• Mtskheta — Jvari and Svetitskhoveli half an hour from Tbilisi, almost weather-proof. Mtskheta tour from ₾98.
• David Gareja — the semi-desert is scorching in summer, but in November the trail to the caves is pleasant. David Gareja tour from ₾225.
• Kazbegi — the first snowy views of Gergeti, but check the road on the day. Kazbegi tour from ₾175.
• Kutaisi and the caves — the west is rainy, so pick indoor sights. Prometheus Cave stays around 14 °C all year. Kutaisi tour from ₾183.

The sea in November

The water off Batumi is about 18 °C in the first half of November and about 16 °C in the second (2023–2025 averages). Only hardy swimmers go in. But November Batumi means empty promenades, tangerines ripening in Adjara's gardens and a fish market without crowds. Pack an umbrella: the coast gets more rain than any other region.

A rainy-day plan for the west

If you base yourself in Kutaisi and the rain sets in, there is still a full day of sights that work in any weather:

1. Gelati Monastery — founded in 1106 by David the Builder, with mosaics and frescoes under a roof. By tradition the king lies under the monastery gate, so that everyone who enters steps over his grave.
2. Sataplia — a reserve about 9 km from Kutaisi with dinosaur footprints in the rock, preserved under a shelter, and a small karst cave.
3. Prometheus Cave — about 14 °C inside whatever the weather; the boat ride may be suspended after heavy rain.
4. Bagrati Cathedral — on a hill above Kutaisi, with a view over the city when the clouds lift.

Leave the canyons, Martvili and Okatse, for a dry day: after heavy rain the boats and walkways may not run.

What's open and what's closed

• Open: museums, monasteries, wineries, Tbilisi's sulphur baths, Vardzia, Prometheus and Sataplia caves, the Narikala cable car.
• Weather-dependent: the Kazbegi road over the Jvari Pass closes temporarily during snowfall; Martvili boats and the Okatse walkway may not run in heavy rain.
• Closed: the road to Tusheti over the Abano Pass, roughly from October until summer. Gudauri and Bakuriani ski runs usually open only in December.

Heading to Kazbegi? Read the best time to visit Kazbegi for how the road and weather change month by month.

Holidays and events

23 November is Giorgoba, the feast of Saint George, Georgia's patron saint, and a national day off. Churches hold festive services and families gather for supra. It's a good day for monasteries but not for errands, as many offices close. New-wine season runs all month.

Is Georgia worth visiting in November?

My answer is yes — if you come for cities, wine, history and calm. If the sea or high mountains are the goal, pick another time: compare months in the best time to visit Georgia. If you can come earlier, Georgia in October has the harvest and a warm sea; if you're waiting for snow, see Georgia in winter. To plan a budget, read how much a trip to Georgia costs.

What November costs

November is low season, so hotels, guesthouses and car hire are cheaper than in summer and easy to book a few days ahead. The one exception is the weekend around Giorgoba on 23 November, when Georgians travel to their home villages.

Tbilisi in November

The capital is the best base this month: it is dry, mild and full of things to do indoors. A sulphur bath is the classic warm-up after a cold walk — prices and the best bathhouses are in my sulphur baths guide. Mornings suit the Old Town and Narikala, when the low sun lights the balconies; afternoons suit museums, wine bars and the Fabrika courtyard. On a wet day see Tbilisi on a rainy day.

Early in the month the Botanical Garden and Mtatsminda Park still keep their yellow leaves. Evenings are cool, so a terrace dinner needs a jacket, and most restaurants move guests inside by mid-month.

Kakheti after the harvest

When the grapes are in, the work moves to the cellar. Wine is fermenting in qvevri, families distil chacha from the pomace, and churchkhela — walnuts dipped in thickened grape juice — hangs to dry in courtyards. For guests this means tastings without the rtveli crowds and a chance to try the first young wine of the year.

Sighnaghi, Telavi and the wineries along the Alazani valley stay open, and the road from Tbilisi is rarely affected by snow. Combine wine with Bodbe and Alaverdi, or read the Kakheti guide for a longer loop.

What to eat and drink in November

This is the month of new wine: the year's first bottles from the qvevri reach wine bars and village tables. Giorgoba on 23 November is one of the big supra days, with roast meat, khachapuri and toasts that go on for hours. In Adjara the tangerine harvest is in full swing, and markets sell persimmons, feijoa and fresh walnuts.

Cold evenings suit Georgian comfort food: khinkali, kharcho, lobio in a clay pot and Adjarian khachapuri (₾12–18) are perfect after a day outside. Ask for the house red in a family restaurant — in November it is usually this year's.

A 5-day November route

1. Day 1 — Tbilisi. Old Town and Narikala in the morning light, a sulphur bath at dusk.
2. Day 2 — Mtskheta. Jvari and Svetitskhoveli, back for an afternoon museum.
3. Day 3 — Kakheti. Sighnaghi, Bodbe and a winery tasting the new wine.
4. Day 4 — David Gareja. The semi-desert is cool enough now for the trail to the cave frescoes.
5. Day 5 — Kazbegi or Imereti. Kazbegi if the pass is open; otherwise Kutaisi with Gelati and Prometheus Cave.

Keep day 5 flexible and decide the evening before, after checking the road and the forecast.

Mistakes to avoid

1. Counting on Tusheti or Shatili. Both mountain roads are closed until late spring.
2. Booking a fixed Kazbegi date. Snow can close the Jvari Pass for a day or two — have a plan B.
3. Planning a beach holiday. The sea is cold and the coast is the rainiest part of the country.
4. Driving back from the mountains after dark. It is dark by 17:30 at the end of the month.
5. Arriving for skiing. Gudauri and Bakuriani usually open only in December.

The mountains in November

November is the month when the high country switches to winter. In Kazbegi the first proper snow usually settles on Gergeti and the slopes above Stepantsminda; the walk up to the church becomes slippery, so many guests take a 4×4 instead. The views are at their sharpest on clear frosty mornings. Day temperatures hover around 5 °C and nights drop below freezing.

Svaneti is still reachable by road via Zugdidi, but it is a long drive with short daylight, so plan at least two nights in Mestia. Tusheti and Khevsureti are closed for the season. If you want snow without a long drive, Kazbegi is the most realistic choice — just keep a backup day.

Photography in November

The low autumn sun is a gift for photos: even at noon the light stays soft and long shadows give texture to old walls and balconies. Golden hour comes early — from about 17:00 at the start of the month and about 16:30 at the end — so plan viewpoints like Narikala or Jvari for the afternoon. In the mountains clear frosty mornings give the sharpest view of Kazbek; in the valleys, morning fog often lifts by eleven.

Where to base yourself

• Tbilisi — the obvious base: most day trips start here, rooms are cheaper than in summer, and the sulphur baths are a short walk from the Old Town.
• Sighnaghi or Telavi — for two or three slow days in wine country. Small guesthouses are quiet and many have a fireplace or a stove.
• Kutaisi — a convenient base for the west in bad weather: Gelati, Prometheus Cave and Sataplia are all close.
• Stepantsminda — only if you are sure of the road; check heating and have a flexible return date.

November or December?

Choose November for calm sightseeing and wine, December for skiing and festive Tbilisi. More on the colder months in our winter guide.

What to pack

1. A warm jacket — Tbilisi evenings are chilly and Kazbegi is already wintry.
2. Waterproof shoes and an umbrella — especially for Batumi and Kutaisi.
3. A scarf — useful at monasteries and against the wind.
4. A rainy-day plan — museums, baths and ideas from Tbilisi on a rainy day.