Svetitskhovloba (Mtskhetoba) on October 14: the Legend, the Feast in Mtskheta and How to Go

I take visitors to Mtskheta almost every week, and on October 14 this quiet town is unrecognisable: crowds of pilgrims, stalls of churchkhela and wine, folk songs right in the streets. If you are in Georgia in mid-October, Svetitskhovloba is the best reason to see the ancient capital in celebration. Below are the dates, the legend and practical tips.

When is Svetitskhovloba

The feast has a fixed date: October 14, or October 1 in the old calendar. It is a public holiday across Georgia.

Mid-October is rtveli, the grape harvest, so a trip for the feast combines well with Kakheti. More on what happens this month in Georgia in October.

The legend: Christ's robe and the living pillar

According to church tradition, Elioz, a Jew from Mtskheta, was in Jerusalem at the time of the crucifixion and brought Christ's robe home. His sister Sidonia took the robe in her hands and died embracing it. She was buried with the robe, and a huge cedar grew over her grave.

Three centuries later, when King Mirian accepted Christianity through the preaching of St Nino, the cedar was cut down to make pillars for the first church. One pillar, the story goes, rose into the air and only settled into place after Nino's prayers. Hence the name: Svetitskhoveli, "the living pillar". By tradition, the robe still lies beneath the cathedral.

Svetitskhoveli Cathedral: what to know

• Age. The first wooden church dates from the 4th century. The present cathedral was built in 1010–1029 by the architect Arsukisdze.
• Status. Together with Jvari Monastery and Samtavro, the cathedral is part of the UNESCO site "Historical Monuments of Mtskheta".
• Royal burials. Many Georgian kings are buried here, including Vakhtang Gorgasali and Erekle II.
• Entry is free; the dress code is the same as in any church: a skirt and headscarf for women, long trousers for men.

What to see inside the cathedral

It is crowded inside on the feast day, so know where to look. If you cannot get close during the service, come back in the afternoon when the crowd thins.

• The Svetitskhoveli pillar. In the main body of the nave stands a painted pillar under a canopy. Tradition holds that it marks the "living pillar" above Sidonia's grave. It always has the most candles.
• The Holy Sepulchre chapel. By the south wall inside the cathedral stands a small stone church from the turn of the 13th and 14th centuries. It is a symbolic copy of the Edicule in Jerusalem, built to mark that Christ's robe is kept in Mtskheta.
• Royal graves. Tombstones in the floor, including those of Vakhtang Gorgasali and Erekle II. People light candles by them on the feast too.
• Frescoes. Most of the paintings date from the 17th century and later, and many were uncovered during 20th-century restoration. Look for the signs of the zodiac, rare in an Orthodox church.

Outside, walk round to the north side. High on the wall is a relief of a hand holding a mason's square, with the inscription "The hand of Arsukisdze, servant of God, may he be forgiven". A legend says the king had the architect's hand cut off. It was made famous by Konstantine Gamsakhurdia's novel "The Right Hand of the Grand Master", but historians treat it as legend.

How the feast is celebrated

In the morning the Catholicos-Patriarch of All Georgia celebrates the festive liturgy at Svetitskhoveli. Clergy from across the country, officials and thousands of believers attend, and both the cathedral and the courtyard are packed.

In recent years a mass baptism has often taken place on this day at the confluence of the Aragvi and Mtkvari rivers, near the cathedral walls. A fair fills the streets of Mtskheta with churchkhela, honey, homemade wine and cheese, and crafts. Folk ensembles perform, and many people wear national dress, the chokha and arkhalukhi.

The celebrations go on until evening, and families then gather for a meal at home or in Mtskheta's restaurants. If you want to eat in town, book a table in advance, as places fill up on this day.

Getting there and where to stand

• By car or with a guide. About 30–40 minutes from Tbilisi. On the feast day the area around the cathedral is packed with cars, so be ready to park further out and walk.
• By minibus. Marshrutkas to Mtskheta leave from Didube metro station. On the morning of October 14 they are packed, so leave before 9:00.
• On a tour. On our Mtskheta tour the guide picks you up in Tbilisi, takes you round the cathedral and explains the service. From ₾98 per person, half a day.

To see the service, be at the cathedral by 9–10 a.m. If the fair and atmosphere matter more to you, arrive around lunchtime once the main service is over.

Tips for the feast day

• Clothing. Women need a skirt below the knee and a headscarf; men need long trousers. In mid-October Mtskheta is around +10 °C in the morning and up to +20 °C by day, so dress in layers.
• Shoes. The walk from parking to the cathedral is on cobblestones and can take 15–20 minutes. Comfortable shoes matter more than smart ones.
• Cash. Many stallholders at the fair take only lari in cash.
• With children. It is very crowded inside during the service. With small children, come in the afternoon for the fair and concerts.
• Getting back. The Mtskheta–Tbilisi road is busy in the evening. Leave before 5 p.m. or after 8 p.m. to avoid traffic.
• 2027. October 14 is a Thursday. Take Friday off for a long weekend: Mtskheta on the feast, then Kakheti at the height of rtveli the next day.

A plan for the feast day in Mtskheta

Samtavro always has pilgrims at the grave of St Gabriel (Urgebadze), a monk canonised by the Georgian Church in 2012. King Mirian and Queen Nana, the first Christian rulers of Kartli, are also buried here.

What else to see in Mtskheta that day

• Jvari Monastery on the hill above the town, 6th century, with the best view of Svetitskhoveli and the river confluence.
• Samtavro Monastery, a convent where, according to tradition, St Nino lived.

A detailed route around the town is in Mtskheta day trip, and other sacred sites nearby are in our guide to monasteries in Georgia.

I love Mtskheta on any day, but on October 14 it is a different town. The quiet streets around Svetitskhoveli fill with pilgrims, stalls of churchkhela and wine, and folk songs right in the streets. If you want to understand why Mtskheta matters so much to Georgians, come on this day. If you want quiet and calm photos of the cathedral, pick any other day.

Sources

• Labour Code of Georgia, Article 20: public holidays (Matsne)
• UNESCO: Historical Monuments of Mtskheta (Svetitskhoveli, Jvari)
• Georgian Orthodox Church: official Patriarchate website