Mariamoba on August 28: the Dormition in Georgia — Traditions and Where to Go

Late August is peak season in Georgia, and many visitors end up at Mariamoba without knowing it: churches are full in the morning, roads to the regions are busy and in the evening restaurants host weddings. Here is what the feast is about and how to make the most of the day.

When is Mariamoba

The date is fixed: August 28, or August 15 in the old calendar. It is a public holiday across Georgia.

In 2027 the feast falls on a weekend, so there is no extra day off, but banks and government offices are closed on that Saturday anyway.

What is celebrated and why it matters in Georgia

Mariamoba marks the Dormition of the Virgin Mary, her "falling asleep" and assumption into heaven. The feast is special in Georgia because the country is considered the Virgin's allotted land. According to tradition, the lot to preach in Georgia fell to Mary herself, and she sent the Apostle Andrew in her place, and later St Nino.

That is why Georgia has so many churches of the Virgin, and on Mariamoba they are full. It is also the name day of everyone called Mariam, Mariko or Mari.

The fast, the vigil and weddings

• The Dormition fast. Two weeks, from August 14 to 27. Believers avoid meat, dairy and fish. Many restaurants add Lenten dishes, and Georgian cuisine already has plenty: pkhali, lobio, ajapsandali.
• The vigil. On the night of August 27–28 churches stay open all night, followed by a festive liturgy in the morning.
• Weddings. The church does not marry couples during the fast, and Mariamoba is considered a lucky wedding day under the Virgin's patronage. So late August and September bring many weddings to restaurants and banquet halls.
• The feast. After the service families gather for a meal. If you are visiting Georgians, congratulate anyone named Mariam.

Mariamoba in Tbilisi: churches of the Dormition

If you stay in the city, there is plenty to see on Mariamoba. Two of old Tbilisi's main churches are dedicated to the Dormition, so August 28 is their own feast day:

• Sioni, the Cathedral of the Dormition on Sioni Street in the old town. It keeps the grapevine cross of St Nino, the most important relic of the Georgian Church. On Mariamoba morning the cathedral and its courtyard are packed.
• Metekhi, the 13th-century Church of the Assumption on a cliff above the Mtkvari, next to the equestrian statue of Vakhtang Gorgasali. The terrace by the church has one of the best views of the old town and Narikala.
• Anchiskhati, the 6th-century Basilica of the Nativity of the Virgin, the oldest surviving church in Tbilisi. It is two minutes from Sioni and much quieter on the feast.

You can walk to all three in a couple of hours. To hear their stories, our Tbilisi churches tour covers Sioni, Metekhi and Anchiskhati with a guide, from ₾145.

Vardzia: the 12th-century Church of the Dormition

The main church of the Vardzia cave city is dedicated to the Dormition of the Virgin. It was carved into the rock in the 1180s under Queen Tamar. Its frescoes include a rare portrait of Tamar painted in her lifetime, alongside her father, King Giorgi III.

Monks still live at Vardzia, and a festive liturgy is held here on Mariamoba. The cave city itself has hundreds of cells, halls and passages cut into several levels of the cliff above the Mtkvari river. Entry costs ₾15.

Vardzia is about 225 km from Tbilisi, so it is a full-day trip. Our Vardzia tour stops at Rabati Castle on the way and starts from ₾295. More about the monastery in Vardzia cave monastery.

More places to go on Mariamoba

• Gelati near Kutaisi, a 12th-century monastery whose main church is dedicated to the Nativity of the Virgin, with a famous apse mosaic of the Virgin and Child.
• Gergeti in Kazbegi. Late August is the best time for the mountains: no snow below, trails open and the Trinity Church at 2,170 m against Mount Kazbek. Kazbegi tour from ₾175.
• Mtskheta, for a short trip: Svetitskhoveli and Jvari, 25 km from Tbilisi. Tour from ₾98.

What is open on August 28

In many villages the main church is dedicated to the Virgin, so August 28 is their khatoba, the church's own feast: a service, a shared table and songs. If your route passes through a village celebrating khatoba, you may well be invited to join.

Other feasts of the Virgin in Georgia

Mariamoba on August 28 is the main one, but not the only feast of the Virgin in the Georgian calendar:

Gelati Monastery celebrates its main feast on September 21, as its cathedral is dedicated to the Nativity of the Virgin.

Tips for the feast in late August

• Heat. Tbilisi can be above +30 °C in late August. For churches, bring light but covering clothes: a skirt or trousers, and a headscarf for women.
• Roads. On the evening of August 27 and the morning of the 28th many people travel to home villages and monasteries. Start long trips early.
• Restaurants. Book tables in advance for the evening of August 28 and the following weekend, as halls are taken by weddings.
• Vardzia in the heat. The cave town faces south and has little shade. Bring water, a hat and shoes with good grip: the tunnels have steep steps and narrow passages. Allow 2–3 hours for the visit.
• Greeting. Say "Gilotsavt Mariamobas!" (გილოცავთ მარიამობას!), "Happy Mariamoba!". Anyone called Mariam or Mariko celebrates their name day too.

Other feasts when churches are especially lively are Giorgoba and Svetitskhovloba.

For me, Mariamoba marks the edge of summer. The two-week fast ends and Georgia's wedding season begins. On this day I suggest going where the feast is real rather than touristic, and for me that is Vardzia: the monastery's main church is dedicated to the Dormition. The road is long, but you see both the cave city and a living service.

Sources

• Labour Code of Georgia, Article 20: public holidays (Matsne)
• Georgian Orthodox Church: official Patriarchate website