Prepared by Sakhva Travel Georgia Guide, a tours and travel platform for Georgia. Sakhva Travel office: 14 Merab Kostava St, Tbilisi.
Tour on this topic: Ananuri tour from Tbilisi — from ₾175
History of the fortress
Ananuri was the seat of the Eristavis of Aragvi — feudal lords who controlled the Aragvi valley and the road across the Caucasus. The fortress was taken and burned more than once in wars between princely clans, and in the 18th century it was besieged by the neighbouring Eristavis of Ksani.
The complex took its present shape in the 17th century. In the 1980s a dam was built nearby, and the water of the Zhinvali Reservoir came right up to the walls — hence the famous view of the fortress above the turquoise water.
What to see
The main church is the Church of the Assumption, built in 1689. Its façades are covered with stone carving: grapevines, crosses, animals. Inside, frescoes from the 17th–18th centuries have survived.
Next to it are the small Church of the Saviour and the square Sheupovari tower, which you can climb by narrow stairs. From the upper levels you can see both the fortress and the reservoir. Walk around the walls: the view of the water is best from the north side.
How to get there
By car from Tbilisi — 1–1.5 hours along the Georgian Military Highway. Parking at the fortress is free.
Marshrutkas to Pasanauri and Kazbegi leave from Didube bus station: ask the driver to stop at Ananuri. To get back, flag down a passing marshrutka on the highway — in summer they run often, in winter less so.
Tips
Entry is free, but the churches are active: women need a headscarf, skirts are handed out at the entrance. Before 10:00 in the morning there are few tourists and the water is at its brightest.
Don't miss the viewpoint on the highway just above the fortress towards Kazbegi — that is where Ananuri is photographed in full. You can grab a bite at the gate or drive 20 minutes to Pasanauri, where they make khinkali.
Where to go next
After Ananuri the road climbs to Gudauri and the Cross Pass, and 1.5 hours later you are in Stepantsminda at the foot of Mount Kazbek. In the other direction, closer to Tbilisi, are Mtskheta and Jvari.
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