Prepared by Sakhva Travel Georgia Guide, a tours and travel platform for Georgia. Sakhva Travel office: 14 Merab Kostava St, Tbilisi.
Tour on this topic: Jvari and Mtskheta tour from Tbilisi — from ₾145
What Jvari is
The name means «cross». According to tradition, in the 4th century Saint Nino set up a wooden cross on this hill, and pilgrims came to it from all over Kartli. In 586–605 a stone church was built over the cross — it still stands almost without alterations.
Jvari became the model for a whole type of Georgian church: the cross-in-square plan with four apses was later repeated across the country. Together with Mtskheta, the church is on the UNESCO World Heritage List.
The view from the hill
The main thing here is the viewing terrace by the wall. Below you can see the green Aragvi meeting the muddy Kura, and beyond the rivers lies Mtskheta with Svetitskhoveli at its centre. Lermontov described this place at the start of his poem «Mtsyri».
The best light is in the morning and an hour before sunset. In the middle of a summer day it is hot and there are many groups; the wind on the summit blows almost all the time, so even in July take a sweater.
How to get there from Tbilisi
By car — about 30 minutes along the highway to Mtskheta; the turn up the hill is signposted. Parking at the church is free.
Marshrutkas run from Didube metro station to Mtskheta but do not go up the hill. From Mtskheta people go up by taxi: agree on a return trip with 30–40 minutes of waiting right away. You can walk up, but the path runs along the highway and is not convenient.
Entry and rules
The monastery is active and entry is free. Women need a headscarf and a skirt — wraps are usually available at the entrance. Men — no shorts. Photos are not taken inside the church during services.
At the gate there are stalls with churchkhela, wine and souvenirs. There is a toilet by the parking area.
What to combine with Jvari
Mtskheta with Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and Samtavro Monastery is 10 minutes below. Further along the Georgian Military Highway is Ananuri Fortress (about an hour), and beyond it Gudauri and Kazbegi. A classic day: Jvari, Mtskheta, Ananuri and lunch with khinkali in Pasanauri.
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